Tuesday, 6 May 2014
And let's not forget about bread
The Third Thursday of November...
Sunday, 4 May 2014
Unexpectedly Good yet Backbreaking Saturday
Tanks Gibbon
If I do say so myself, we ate well. The picture does not exactly illustrate the amount of garlic mashed potatoes I made. This is an 8-quart stockpot, mostly full of spuds:
It was an enjoyable meal, and the conversation was ebullient. Lindz and I put some real work into making the house a welcoming place (getting a big chunk of cabinet installation done, cleaning the house, cooking, etc.), and I'd say we succeeded.
Culinary Postscript: Gravy
I put a lot (probably a disproportionate amount) of care and energy into gravy. I think it is an often-undervalued item, a potent plate-unifier and vehicle for flavor. This year, I did not succeed in finding turkey wings on my last-minute trip to the Food Lion. I usually use these to make turkey stock so I don't have to rely on drippings from the main bird (they can get burned, it's a tricky, messy procedure to get them out of the pan, and you can't have them until late in the meal prep). Nevertheless, this year's gravy was good. I think my thin, sharp new Japanese knife played an important part. For the first time, I cut my aromatics truly fine. It makes a difference. Gravy is an expression of care, attention to detail, the innate flavor of the ingredients, and technique. Here is the 2007 Blauhaus Gravy:
Three carrots, brunoise cut
Three ribs of celery, brunoise cut
One medium onion, minced
Three cloves of garlic, minced
One bay leaf
One star anise
One chile de arbol
A fistful of fresh thyme sprigs
One sprig of fresh rosemary
One quart of organic chicken stock
One turkey neck
A gob of chicken Better then Bouillon, to taste
Turkey drippings (they didn't burn)
Blond roux (I think it was 3 tbsp of butter and about 1/3 c flour)
A bit of cornstarch at the end, as necessary
Sweat the carrots, celery, onion and garlic in a bit of olive oil. When they've softened a bit, add the chicken stock, turkey neck, anise, bay leaf, chile, thyme and rosemary. Simmer this slowly, stirring occasionally, while you're doing everything else. We're talking about a few hours here. Add water if you think you're reducing too much. Reduction means flavor, so balance how good it tastes with how much gravy you'll need.
Within an hour of service (but before you're dealing with getting the bird out of the oven), make some blond roux in a smaller (1 1/2 or 2 qt) saucepan. Strain the gravy into this roux pan. Squeeze what liquid you can out of the solids and discard them. Whisk. Whisk. Bring it to a simmer. Whisk. Adjust the seasoning with the Better than Bouillon (I treat it as salt in a situation like this). The gravy should be a bit thicker now. Cover it and set it aside, off the heat. Deal with the turkey and stuffing. At this point, I added the drippings while the bird was resting, and I thickened it just a bit more with cornstarch. The roux makes for a better consistency, so I didn't use cornstarch alone for thickening this.
One of the things I love about Thanksgiving is how this meal is the essence of what I see as the greatest cooking: turning humble ingredients into very special food. There were no expensive or exotic ingredients here. Next year, I want to get an heirloom turkey, or perhaps a goose, and one might consider that semi-exotic. To someone without a farm, perhaps it is. Anyway, that's next year.
Friday, 2 May 2014
Not the easiest cabinet ever
The picture doesn't exactly do justice to how much of a pain in the ass this cabinet was. We are very excited to have this one done.
First of all, it's heavy and unwieldy. A good deal of measuring and remeasuring was necessary, and we had to do some dancing, swearing, sawing, chiseling and Rube-Goldberg style rigging to get this sumbitch up. I had to construct some support devices; apparently the wife hasn't been weightlifting enough to hold 40 lbs of cabinet over her head, perfectly motionless, while I drill holes and drive screws. I also managed to nick the dishwasher drain tube with my rotary tool, so I've got a bit of plumbing to do. The dishwasher was the source of some frustration (that white expanse in the middle of the picture is a board that goes from the floor up to the soffit; moving the dishwasher to work on it caused some issues).
We'll install the cabinet to its immediate right tomorrow.
The project has had fewer surprises and frustrations (so far) than the bathroom remodel, and we're a good chunk of the way through.
Another one
Anyway, we are very satisfied with the results.
And now it's time to fix the damaged dishwasher drain tube. After that, perhaps a cocktail or three....
Thursday, 1 May 2014
Stagnant Career, Augury, German Visitor, Knick-Knacks, Weird Confectionery
Much more happily and importantly, Ellen came down for a visit before she returns to Germany. She and Bryan cooked us a very fine dinner Friday, and we all watched A Christmas Story. I'm amazed how the weekend flew by. I never got around to cooking for her (Lindz's dad was visiting, though, and he treated us to takeout Chinese), and I didn't follow through with my announced plans to bake stollen. Takeout Chinese and A Christmas Story are two very American things, so I hope it was culturally valuable for her. She made raisin bread for Lindz and me, though. It's delicious. We inhaled a good portion of the loaf this morning:
On to a completely different and more trivial subject. I typically don't seek out things that don't perform a necessary function for the house (i.e., knick-knacks, bric-a-brac, tchotchke or whimsical accents for the home) but I couldn't resist this item. It's appropriate, given my decades-long love of pipe organs and organ music. Pictured below is note F from a rank of Stopped Diapason pipes. I got it from an antiques dealer in Pennsylvania, and I mounted it above the kitchen doorway. The shelf is a drawer front I reclaimed from the old cabinetry.
And how about this? Yes, it's true. Chocolate and bacon, together at last.
It's good. Sweet and slightly salty with a bit of smoke. What's not to like, I ask you?